Roberts Rules

A truly inspiring experience yesterday. I attended a lecture, live demonstration and workshop with British fashion designer Julian Roberts as part of Bath in Fashion 2012. The day focused on Roberts revolutionary pattern cutting method Subtraction Cutting a technique which he invented that focuses on the hollow spaces between the garment and the body. It is an approach to garment pattern cutting whereby the patterns cut do not represent the garments outward shape, but rather the negative space within the garment that make them hollow. Roberts has been inspired by Japanese designers such as Issey Miyake. He creates videos to use as part of his presentations which are records of his work. He keeps a blog which he uses to view his inspiration in one place.

The tunnel technique was the focus of the workshop which involves creating a sleeping bag shape to then cut into. A series of circular holes are cut away and then the holes are stitched together creating a new tube for the body to pass through. The combinations of  placement, size and number of holes can be endlessly explored to make any garment e.g. dress, skirt, trousers, sleeves. The results of Roberts live demonstration are captured above.

There were 30 participants and we had just two and a half hours to turn 6 metres of fabric into a dress to be displayed at the Assembly Rooms in Bath. My attempt is below:

Roberts also talked about his plug technique which is closest to having zero waste and he has worked with other designers who aim to produce ethical, sustainable, zero waste clothing such as Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen.  I can see how these challenges to design can actually heighten creativity. 

 

Roberts attitude and approach is refreshing and is conducive to maximum creativity. I have summarised the follow points that I have taken away with me (aside of the tunnel technique learnt):

• errors are good (sharpens the development of your technique)
• unknown outcomes allow for discovery
• fear instigates creativity
• process is important (equal to design as designer should be equal to craftsman/ patterncutter/ seamstress)
• new discoveries can be made (who says a square peg can't fit in a round hole?!)
• look from different viewpoints