Roberts Rules

A truly inspiring experience yesterday. I attended a lecture, live demonstration and workshop with British fashion designer Julian Roberts as part of Bath in Fashion 2012. The day focused on Roberts revolutionary pattern cutting method Subtraction Cutting a technique which he invented that focuses on the hollow spaces between the garment and the body. It is an approach to garment pattern cutting whereby the patterns cut do not represent the garments outward shape, but rather the negative space within the garment that make them hollow. Roberts has been inspired by Japanese designers such as Issey Miyake. He creates videos to use as part of his presentations which are records of his work. He keeps a blog which he uses to view his inspiration in one place.

The tunnel technique was the focus of the workshop which involves creating a sleeping bag shape to then cut into. A series of circular holes are cut away and then the holes are stitched together creating a new tube for the body to pass through. The combinations of  placement, size and number of holes can be endlessly explored to make any garment e.g. dress, skirt, trousers, sleeves. The results of Roberts live demonstration are captured above.

There were 30 participants and we had just two and a half hours to turn 6 metres of fabric into a dress to be displayed at the Assembly Rooms in Bath. My attempt is below:

Roberts also talked about his plug technique which is closest to having zero waste and he has worked with other designers who aim to produce ethical, sustainable, zero waste clothing such as Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen.  I can see how these challenges to design can actually heighten creativity. 

 

Roberts attitude and approach is refreshing and is conducive to maximum creativity. I have summarised the follow points that I have taken away with me (aside of the tunnel technique learnt):

• errors are good (sharpens the development of your technique)
• unknown outcomes allow for discovery
• fear instigates creativity
• process is important (equal to design as designer should be equal to craftsman/ patterncutter/ seamstress)
• new discoveries can be made (who says a square peg can't fit in a round hole?!)
• look from different viewpoints

Lets Talk Business

'Being good in business is the most fascinating kind of art.'   
Andy Warhol

I attended a lecture today with Sue Gregor who creates handmade jewellery, graduated from the Printmaking MA (the same one I'm currently studying) and more importantly is making herself a successful career from her endeavours. The lecture was a crash course in how to turn what you like doing into a profitable business from good ideas to approaching galleries and cash flow. Sue looked at case various case studies to demonstrate how other companies have been set up and then grown. It was encouraging to see that many others, including Sue have been able to steadily build a successful business from small beginnings. In conclusion this is what I need to work on:

• Learn to photograph work to a high standard
• Attract attention (this Blog is a start)
• Follow Sues guidelines when approaching galleries
• Learn about the market by comparing own work to what is out there already
• Up-date CV
• Complete personal profile for Blog

Bless you FTM

Second exhibition of the day which took me to the Fashion & Textiles Museum in Bermonsey which I haven't visited since my work placement for Zandra Rhodes about 15 years ago (please forgive me Zandra!) Note second lady with bonkers bright hair in one day.... Viewed two exhibitions, firstly the Post-War British Textiles featuring the likes of Lucienne Day and Jacqueline Groag. Always good to be reminded of those who placed British Textiles on the map in the 50's and 60's and generally livened up the homes of many. Reminded me of rummaging through fabrics my mum and grandma used to hoard (and still do!). More interested in the abstract patterns (as supposed to the illustrative) and the non-identical repetitive motifs playing with varied scales, line and block colour.  Note to self: The use of block colour with line drawing printed on top was more lively when the silhouettes were different rather than matched. Love the colours, in particular Lucienne Day tea towels.

The Printed Square was a smaller exhibition showcasing a collection vintage hankerchiefs from the 1920's - 1950's. The history of the hankerchief has many associations such from tokens of affection to a sign of prosperity and position. Many of the examples were jolly florals but I liked this idea of a pin-up poster style hankie. Popularity of the hankerchief started to die out in the 1950's due to a health campaign relating to the throw away tissue. As I returned home with a cold (seriously, was that meant to be ironic?!) I wondered if it is time to re-invent the hankie...

Day Trippin'

Went to see the Kusama exhibition at the TATE Modern today which was fantastic. The exhibition displayed her work in chronological order and became more and more energetic as you entered each room. An obsession with pattern and repetition was apparent whether in her large scale paintings, muslin stuffed form sculptures or rooms/ environments. Kusama uses collections to make much of her work and my favourites were the collages of collected labels (for example air mail stickers) which she pasted on top of inked paper. The imperfect arrangement of the geometric labels is what gave it energy and beauty. On first glance they looked like batiks. She also used collected objects in her sculpture series ' Accumulation Sulptures' such as a pair of shorts pegged on to a hanger, covered in macaroni and sprayed gold.

The variety of media and scale explored through  her work was inspiring. Starting with A4 size paintings and finishing with this mirrored 'Infintiy' room which reflected hundred of neon ball lights to create the illusion of depth and repeated the lights again and again.... cosmic!

This week I have been attempting to combine a series of small scale repeat patterns that I recently developed from some drawings of art deco jewellery at the V&A. I'm working with digital printouts and a scalpel for now but plan to screen print and laser cut final versions... 

Planning to add a placement design to compliment cut out design and to explore tonal use of colour through layers.

Justification for Starting a blog

Having initially cringed at the thought of having a blog or becoming a 'blogger' I have recently had my eyes opened for long enough to realise some of the benefits this could have. Currently studying on the MA in Multi-Disciplinary Printmaking at UWE (University of the West of England) I have met other bloggers and listened to their reasons for having a blog. A lecture I recently attended by P.Laidler (Research Associate at UWE) outlined the personal benefits of keeping a blog and therefore was the nail in the coffin! So, here are my reasons for starting this blog...

A Personal Resource

A way of organising a variety of information in one place improving documentation and reflection of my practise.

Communication with Others

An accessible and professional method of introducing and presenting my practise to others. Sharing what I've been up to with peers and friends.

I plan to blog about...

• on-going work and experiments
• books I'm reading
• exhibitions/ places of inspiration visited
• workshops/ lectures attended
• other inspiring things such as other peoples blogs