Master of Couture at Somerset House celebrates the work of Valentino by showcasing over 130 ensembles, many worn by icons. The exhibition starts with a private collection of photographs, correspondence and fashion sketches. You then enter the catwalk style display of garments, where there are no glass cabinets, just a rope to divide the viewer from the fabric. As with every fashion show the last garment is a wedding dress where in this case the veil alone took 16 seamstresses hand sewing for six weeks to attach the lace. So this is what couture means!
The final part of the exhibition demonstrates the craftsmanship involved in creating couture. This is seen through a series of technical samples and clinical videos where the seamstress and samples seem to take on the role of doctor and patient in an operating theatre. The skill and precision is made to look easy - but its not.
It is the craftsmanship alongside the use of materials that I found intriging. A dress of one colour may in fact combine several different materials and techniques to create interest of surface and texture, producing the feeling of luxury in what initially appears a simple garment. Often the garments appear fluid yet are full of structure. I like the idea of a piece of work looking effortless yet as a designer keeping all the control and also the suggestion of movement within a static work. Some of the construction demonstrated have given me ideas of how I could develop my existing methods.
One final thought remains: surely its the seamstresses and pattern cutters that are the true masters of couture and maybe Valentino is the master of vision ... http://www.somersethouse.org.uk/visual-arts/valentino
